Friday 23rd October 2009
This morning Ruairi headed to Butare...My bag was packed for the weekend of fun...my clothes for travelling in were out ready...all I had to do was get through one more day in the office...and how hard could that be? I got to the education office at just gone 7am...Alexis was already there with our new ‘big boss’ Simeon...I stood in the doorway...and Alexis appeared to be looking straight through me...after a while...(I am not sure if maybe he was trying to remember who I was) he came back to life and explained who Simeon was (as if I didn’t know) he then informed me that there was no generator...and that he had a meeting...so I was told to ‘do whatever I want’ and with that I headed to the district office...at least they would have electricity and internet! I managed to last out until 2.30pm...by which time I was so miserable...there was nothing left to do but go home...once back at the house...I decided to repack everything...got changed and before I knew it, it was 4.30pm and I needed to get back to the office to catch the bus to Butare where I was to meet the others...just as I opened the door...it started to rain...and rain...and rain...I don’t just mean a little bit of drizzle...this was rain to put even the best waterproofs through their paces...but there was only one thing for it...I had to go...so with the waterproof cover on my camera case...dressed in a very fetching poncho...with an umbrella for a little extra protection...I headed out...much to the amusement of the locals...who didn’t even try to disguise their laughter at the soaking wet mzungu...by the time I had slipped, stumbled and sloshed my way to the office...I was nearly dry...with the exception of my legs, feet and any clothing which was not covered by the poncho...where the muddy rain had splashed back from the dirt covered road...my legs and feet were caked in a red/brown/mud/water solution...I looked awful...and i had a really pretty skirt on too!!! (which was also covered in mud) I was laughed at in the office, and by the time the bus arrived...the rain had stopped...typical!!! I met Melanie in Butare and we headed to the guesthouse where I got changed...and later we met with Julie...had a COLD beer and some dinner before heading to bed...only to suddenly remember...I only had one job to do...and I had forgotten...I was supposed to book the bus...it had to be done in advance as the bus doesn’t usually stop in Butare...crap it!!...During the night...I woke...and was horrified as when I looked at my mattress...it was covered in thousands of insects...I have never moved so fast in my whole life...I was up...armed with a torch...only to discover that it must have been a Larium induced hallucination of some sort...
This morning Ruairi headed to Butare...My bag was packed for the weekend of fun...my clothes for travelling in were out ready...all I had to do was get through one more day in the office...and how hard could that be? I got to the education office at just gone 7am...Alexis was already there with our new ‘big boss’ Simeon...I stood in the doorway...and Alexis appeared to be looking straight through me...after a while...(I am not sure if maybe he was trying to remember who I was) he came back to life and explained who Simeon was (as if I didn’t know) he then informed me that there was no generator...and that he had a meeting...so I was told to ‘do whatever I want’ and with that I headed to the district office...at least they would have electricity and internet! I managed to last out until 2.30pm...by which time I was so miserable...there was nothing left to do but go home...once back at the house...I decided to repack everything...got changed and before I knew it, it was 4.30pm and I needed to get back to the office to catch the bus to Butare where I was to meet the others...just as I opened the door...it started to rain...and rain...and rain...I don’t just mean a little bit of drizzle...this was rain to put even the best waterproofs through their paces...but there was only one thing for it...I had to go...so with the waterproof cover on my camera case...dressed in a very fetching poncho...with an umbrella for a little extra protection...I headed out...much to the amusement of the locals...who didn’t even try to disguise their laughter at the soaking wet mzungu...by the time I had slipped, stumbled and sloshed my way to the office...I was nearly dry...with the exception of my legs, feet and any clothing which was not covered by the poncho...where the muddy rain had splashed back from the dirt covered road...my legs and feet were caked in a red/brown/mud/water solution...I looked awful...and i had a really pretty skirt on too!!! (which was also covered in mud) I was laughed at in the office, and by the time the bus arrived...the rain had stopped...typical!!! I met Melanie in Butare and we headed to the guesthouse where I got changed...and later we met with Julie...had a COLD beer and some dinner before heading to bed...only to suddenly remember...I only had one job to do...and I had forgotten...I was supposed to book the bus...it had to be done in advance as the bus doesn’t usually stop in Butare...crap it!!...During the night...I woke...and was horrified as when I looked at my mattress...it was covered in thousands of insects...I have never moved so fast in my whole life...I was up...armed with a torch...only to discover that it must have been a Larium induced hallucination of some sort...
Saturday 24th October 2009
Julie saved the day...up at the crack of dawn she headed out to book us onto the bus...I got dressed and headed to the bank and the post office...both were short visits, which is unusual for this country...the bus was booked for 10am...Karen was due in from Gitarama at 9.15am...we had breakfast and went to meet her from the bus...and then we waited...and waited...and waited...and finally at about 10.25am we were told to get onto a bus...and we were driven to meet the bus...the bus, unsurprisingly was very full and we all had to sit on the fold down chairs in the aisle...the journey took 3 hours 40mins...on a road which winds up and down the mountain side...the road actually goes all the way to Cyangugu, on the Congolese boarder...but we got off at the Gisakura tea estate in Nyungwe Forest National Park. Off the bus and armed with a million bags...we made our way, on foot, to the guesthouse on the tea estate where we were to stay for the weekend...it was basic but comfortable and the guard made us tea (from the estate) when we arrived...after tea and lunch...we walked to the ORTPN (not really sure what that stands for) where we booked walks in the park the next day...it was early to bed as we had a long day ahead on Sunday!
Sunday 25th October 2009
Up bright and early...beautifully dressed in t-shirt, walking boots and jogging bottoms tucked into my socks...following the advice of our guide, who met us at the guesthouse at 8am...the first walk we were to do was monkey tracking...the walk was reasonably easy and the moneys were incredible...colobus monkeys...black and white...with 3 fingers and a thumb...the leader of the troupe, surprisingly, is not a colobus monkey but is a crossbreed...this is very rare...but the other monkeys do as he says...from there we walked through a small patch of the forest (1km2) before heading for the main forest which covers 115km2 ...walking through the forest we had to walk quickly as there were huge numbers of ants...looking to hitch a ride...one did in fact manage...I looked down on my trousers to see an ant the size of small horse hanging on with its pincers...I tried with all my might...I really did...but it was no good...the squeals just had a mind of their own and seemed all the louder in the forest! Thankfully I was rescued by our guide, who managed to take the giant ant off me...but it wasn’t just the size...they really bite...and really hurt! Out of the forest we walked through the tea plantations and areas where they dry the tea using Eucalyptus trees...not sure how they do it...but they use those trees as they are sustainable. When a Eucalyptus tree is cut down, it grows from the stump...and will be big enough to use with 3 years! Down a dirt track, through the tea plantation (actually through the tea plants) and we found ourselves back in the forest...up and down...over bamboo bridges...slipping and sliding...we made it to the waterfall...it was amazing...the water is not clear as it flows from a nearby swamp which contains lots of animal remains, including the remains of elephants...the noise produced was really loud...we decided that this would be a good place to stop and have our picnic...we walked back the same way we came...about 20 minutes from the office...it started to rain...in the same fashion as Friday...but armed with my trusty poncho...I was dry (apart from the bottom of my trousers) when we got back but unfortunately this was not the case for the others! After stopping for a pop...we slowly made our way back to the guesthouse...we must have walked nearly 20km today and most of it was in the rain forest...up and down mountains! Buckets of hot water were used to shower with in the vain hope of stopping the aches and pains...dinner of chips, rice and goat stew was consumed...and photos were looked at...before we all fell exhausted into bed...
Sunday 26th October 2009
Hardly able to move...I crawled out of bed...every muscle ached...and even brushing my teeth was cripplingly painful...we had breakfast and quick tour of the tea factory. Unfortunately it was not running as Monday is cleaning day...but was interesting to see none the less. Collecting our bags, we headed for the bus stop...again this was not a normal stop so the bus (when it finally arrived) had to be hailed...this was done and we were on our way...the bus driver thought that he was on a race track and went hurtling down the narrow and winding mountain road...I slept some on the way...but when I woke...I found that the lady I was sat next to was doing some sort of strange breathing thing...I then realised...no...she was not breathing...she was burping...CONTINUOUSLY...it was DISGUSTING! I was informed that by the man next to me that she was ill and had air in her stomach...sad as I was for her...I was sadder for myself...yuk yuk yuk!!!! Finally we were back in Butare...Julie had hated the journey so far, so much that she decided to get off in Butare and get another bus from another company back to Kigali. We went for lunch in Mataar and then got the bus home in our opposite directions...The bus journey back to Gisagara was squashed and slow...with the local staring, pointing and laughing in their usual fashion. At home I unpacked and showered...still aching and sore...I finally clambered into bed at 8pm...
Julie saved the day...up at the crack of dawn she headed out to book us onto the bus...I got dressed and headed to the bank and the post office...both were short visits, which is unusual for this country...the bus was booked for 10am...Karen was due in from Gitarama at 9.15am...we had breakfast and went to meet her from the bus...and then we waited...and waited...and waited...and finally at about 10.25am we were told to get onto a bus...and we were driven to meet the bus...the bus, unsurprisingly was very full and we all had to sit on the fold down chairs in the aisle...the journey took 3 hours 40mins...on a road which winds up and down the mountain side...the road actually goes all the way to Cyangugu, on the Congolese boarder...but we got off at the Gisakura tea estate in Nyungwe Forest National Park. Off the bus and armed with a million bags...we made our way, on foot, to the guesthouse on the tea estate where we were to stay for the weekend...it was basic but comfortable and the guard made us tea (from the estate) when we arrived...after tea and lunch...we walked to the ORTPN (not really sure what that stands for) where we booked walks in the park the next day...it was early to bed as we had a long day ahead on Sunday!
Sunday 25th October 2009
Up bright and early...beautifully dressed in t-shirt, walking boots and jogging bottoms tucked into my socks...following the advice of our guide, who met us at the guesthouse at 8am...the first walk we were to do was monkey tracking...the walk was reasonably easy and the moneys were incredible...colobus monkeys...black and white...with 3 fingers and a thumb...the leader of the troupe, surprisingly, is not a colobus monkey but is a crossbreed...this is very rare...but the other monkeys do as he says...from there we walked through a small patch of the forest (1km2) before heading for the main forest which covers 115km2 ...walking through the forest we had to walk quickly as there were huge numbers of ants...looking to hitch a ride...one did in fact manage...I looked down on my trousers to see an ant the size of small horse hanging on with its pincers...I tried with all my might...I really did...but it was no good...the squeals just had a mind of their own and seemed all the louder in the forest! Thankfully I was rescued by our guide, who managed to take the giant ant off me...but it wasn’t just the size...they really bite...and really hurt! Out of the forest we walked through the tea plantations and areas where they dry the tea using Eucalyptus trees...not sure how they do it...but they use those trees as they are sustainable. When a Eucalyptus tree is cut down, it grows from the stump...and will be big enough to use with 3 years! Down a dirt track, through the tea plantation (actually through the tea plants) and we found ourselves back in the forest...up and down...over bamboo bridges...slipping and sliding...we made it to the waterfall...it was amazing...the water is not clear as it flows from a nearby swamp which contains lots of animal remains, including the remains of elephants...the noise produced was really loud...we decided that this would be a good place to stop and have our picnic...we walked back the same way we came...about 20 minutes from the office...it started to rain...in the same fashion as Friday...but armed with my trusty poncho...I was dry (apart from the bottom of my trousers) when we got back but unfortunately this was not the case for the others! After stopping for a pop...we slowly made our way back to the guesthouse...we must have walked nearly 20km today and most of it was in the rain forest...up and down mountains! Buckets of hot water were used to shower with in the vain hope of stopping the aches and pains...dinner of chips, rice and goat stew was consumed...and photos were looked at...before we all fell exhausted into bed...
Sunday 26th October 2009
Hardly able to move...I crawled out of bed...every muscle ached...and even brushing my teeth was cripplingly painful...we had breakfast and quick tour of the tea factory. Unfortunately it was not running as Monday is cleaning day...but was interesting to see none the less. Collecting our bags, we headed for the bus stop...again this was not a normal stop so the bus (when it finally arrived) had to be hailed...this was done and we were on our way...the bus driver thought that he was on a race track and went hurtling down the narrow and winding mountain road...I slept some on the way...but when I woke...I found that the lady I was sat next to was doing some sort of strange breathing thing...I then realised...no...she was not breathing...she was burping...CONTINUOUSLY...it was DISGUSTING! I was informed that by the man next to me that she was ill and had air in her stomach...sad as I was for her...I was sadder for myself...yuk yuk yuk!!!! Finally we were back in Butare...Julie had hated the journey so far, so much that she decided to get off in Butare and get another bus from another company back to Kigali. We went for lunch in Mataar and then got the bus home in our opposite directions...The bus journey back to Gisagara was squashed and slow...with the local staring, pointing and laughing in their usual fashion. At home I unpacked and showered...still aching and sore...I finally clambered into bed at 8pm...
Monday 27th October 2009
Today is the start of the P6 exams. At 7am Alexis called to say that we were to meet him at the education office at 8am, when we would go in cars to visit schools, making sure that the exams were running smoothly...we arrived in the office and Alexis was nowhere to be seen...no surprises there then...eventually he arrived and had with him a MINEDUC official...it was decided that Ruairi would go with Alexis and the man from MINEDUC, while I would go with Protogen the head teacher of the local secondary school St. Phillipe Neri. Before we left for the schools we had to go to the district office to collect 3 enormous metal signs...big as they were...it was funny to watch 8 men struggle getting them into the back of the 4x4...not just because of the size of the signs but because they were completely cackhanded about it...in the end they got them in and secured them...and we were off...first stop was Ndora...and I was in a huge surprise...I am also thinking that we should threaten the children in Year 6 with this...as during the exams...the schools are guarded by armed soldiers, policemen and local security...and I am not talking about a little pistol...they have huge, huge, huge scary guns...I wasn’t going to do anything wrong! Everything appeared to be running smoothly so we headed on with our journey...while walking back to the car I was talking with Protogen about where the schools are and when he said one was near the border of Burundi I said that I will have been close to two borders this week as we were only a short distance from the Congolese border...a short while later we pulled up at the side of the road and dropped off the smaller of the three signs...the signs are something to do with stopping corruption...anyway...there was a bit more of a struggle and the sign was out and we were on our way again...next stop was the Kibirizi sector office...he we dropped another sign and picked up a policeman...at the second school every was again running smoothly...but this is not surprising considering the armed guards outside all of the schools to ensure that there is no cheating...either by teachers or children...the system for setting the exams puts the British system for SATs to shame! Several versions of each paper are sent to the printers in the UK...then 2 employees from MINEDUC (the Rwandan Ministry of Education) go to the UK to choose the final versions of the papers which will be printed and used...the papers are then flown to Rwanda where they are met by the army...they are kept in storage overnight with 2 armed soldiers...they use two so that they can keep an eye on each other! Then the papers are taken (again with armed soldiers) to the district education office...from there they are dispatched to the examination centres...there are one or two in each sector and the all the children from surrounding schools will go to the allocated exam centre for their sector (exam centres are in the most central and accessible schools). The children take the exam under the supervision of the army, police and local security...all with guns...two children from each of the examination rooms has to verify that the packets of exam papers have not been tampered with and the supervising teacher is not permitted to see the paper until the exam is over...MINEDUC officials and the director of education visit the schools to make sure that the test is being carried out properly...when all the exams are finished...the papers are collected and taken to the education office in the district by more armed soldiers and they will be guarded for the night...the next day they will transported to a centre in province, so for the southern province the centre will be in Butare and there the papers will be marked...so, there is no cheating and the children are not permitted to ask for any help, including the reading of the paper...P6 is the equivalent of Year 6 and the children are supposed to be aged around 11...Not only are they not to ask for any help in the reading of the test...but these children until last year, had all their education through French...now they are sitting exam papers written in English! Anyway...we plodded on to some of the more remote sectors in the district...on the way we picked up 3 hitchhikers and Protogen decided that he was going to drive so the driver was now sat in the back with me and one hitchhiker, while the other two were in the pickup bit...after we had finished visiting the schools, we went to the sector office in Nyanza sector...the policeman had to do something...and then Protogen said that as we had seen all the schools, we would now see the border of Burundi...we picked up someone else to give them a lift...but less than two minutes later they had been dumped out and a soldier (with his huge great big scary gun!) was now sat in his place in the back of the car with myself and the driver...we seemed to be driving for ages...on possibly the worst roads I have ever seen...with grass growing not just down the middle or the sides...but covering the entire road! Finally we came out onto a proper tarmac road...something which I didn’t realise we had in Gisagara...we dropped off the soldier...and headed down the road...after what felt like ages...we were at the border...I hadn’t realised that I was going to be taken all the way to crossing...the countries are divided by a river. I was taken into the offices to meet everyone...it soon became apparent that both Protogen and the policeman had a lot of connections at the border...we met a tall broad and rather intimidating man who walked us past the boarder for Rwanda, and into the neutral area between the countries...I was a little unnerved as I didn’t have my passport but I later found out that that would not have been a problem and we would have crossed all the way into Burundi had we not been with a policeman in a Rwandan uniform...the man we were with just happened to be the first commander in charge of border control. There was a lot of chatter in Kinyarwanda and then we started to walk back towards the car...and then past it...it was maybe 12.30pm...the sun was strong and I was starting to think that I might need a wee...I was hoping we would walk back to the car but no, we went to a bar instead...Protogen, the policeman and the first commander each had two beers and the driver had a fanta...I had nothing as I didn’t want to use the ‘facilities’ in the establishment we were in...you never know what you will find...Everyone found it very strange that I didn’t want a drink of any kind and I didn’t really want to explain my reasons why...so they just thought I was strange...then they ordered another 2 beers each...and goat brochettes...which are basically kebabs...I then had to try and explain why I was not eating them, they could not quite believe that I didn’t eat meat...and then more drinks were ordered and we were joined by the Executive Secretary of the sector...I was asked what I thought of Burundi...and I STUPIDLY said I thought it looked very much like Rwanda...I was quickly corrected...they are in fact very different...Burundi being dry and brown while Rwanda is green...I still maintain that they look the same! Anyway...finally at 5pm after 6 beers each had been consumed...it was decided that we would go home...after 4 and a half hours...I am glad that I didn’t have a drink...I never would have made it and then there was the hour long journey back to the village on dirt tracks...thankfully, the driver was back in his rightful place behind the wheel...and we were off for home...not long after setting off we picked up yet another hitchhiker...who sat in the back with myself and Protogen, while the policeman was in the front with the driver...then we picked up another 3 hitchhikers...one more in the back...so 4 people squashed onto 3 seats and 2 in the pickup...then we stopped and to my horror, the driver got out as we were near his house and protogen and his 6 beers drove the rest of the way back...we slowly dropped off the hitchhikers we stopped a car in the middle of the road...and one of the men got out...took what loked like it might have been the driving licence of the other car and we set off again...finally we were back at the education office...and not before time...I suggested that maybe as I had been sat down all day, I could walk from there...apparently not...I was driven all the way home...nearly mowing down a few guests for a local wedding on the way...I have never been so happy to see my house! Back in one piece...so just to recap...
1 border crossing
3 bottles of fanta (for the driver)
8 goat brochettes
11 hitchhikers (including one with a GUN!!!)
22 beers
What a day!
Tuesday 28th October 2009
I think I have just about recovered from yesterday’s excitement! Today I was off on school visits again...this time with Alexis, while Ruairi went with the man from MINEDUC again...I was collected from the house at just gone 7.30am. Today we were to go to 5 sectors...but as I was with Alexis the visits were short...We arrived at the first school and Alexis nearly had a fit...as the exams hadn’t yet started he ordered the children to come and tidy up the grounds as there was litter scattered everywhere! The school was not in the best state and the toilets were VERY smelly!! We left and Alexis was not in a mood for messing...at the next school he was all of a dither as the desks were too close together...he made sure that they were all in the right places and then the exam started...we made it round three more schools before he was too tired to do anymore work and we headed back to the office...Alexis got out of the car and when I asked about whether I would see him that afternoon at the district office...I was told to ‘go home and take pause’. I was driven home...had some lunch and headed out the district office...I walked home in the shadow of a giant rain cloud, but made it home long before the rains started...
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